Q&A

All thanks to lockdown, you’ve tried a home balayage. Despite using the finest products and a near‑irreproachable technique, the transformation is far from what you hoped for…sounds familiar? Bleaching is unfortunately not enough for salon-like results. To adjust and perfect hair color, a toner is a must.

What is a toner?

Toners allow for manipulating the shade of your hair without altering the level. This type of product neutralizes or accentuates the highlights while giving your hair added lustre and a healthier appearance. Wella Color Charms, Kenra Demi Permanents and Schwarzkopf Igora Vibrance are good examples.

The results will last 4 to 8 weeks depending on your hair type, its porosity and the daily care used. Below are points to consider when choosing a toner.

Step 1: Lightening the hair to the desired level

Toner does not lighten the hair or make it paler, it changes its shade. Often, many people make the mistake of counting on this type of product to get a lighter colour. For example, those who want platinum blond apply the toner to hair that’s too dark. The result? Great disappointment, as well as wasted time and product!

It is therefore essential to sufficiently bleach first in orer to create the perfect canvas to receive the toner pigments.

Step 2: Identify the pigments to be neutralized or accentuated

A good understanding of the chromatic circle is important at this step. To neutralize an unwanted hue, you must choose a toner containing the opposite pigments. Each colour level has an underlining pigment associated with it:

• Blacks (level 1) = dark red pigments
  Browns (levels 2, 3, 4 and 5) = copper pigments
  Dark or medium blonds (levels 6 and 7) = golden pigments
  Light blonds (levels 8, 9 and 10) = yellow pigments

Let’s say you have brown hair to which you’ve applied highlights. There’s a good chance that the bleached parts are now coppery. Now, ask yourself: what’s the opposite of orange? Blue! By doing this exercise, you’ll be able to determine the pigment needed to counteract unwanted colors.

To learn how to choose and apply the toner, go to part 2!