Q&A

In Toners for beginners (part 1), we showed the purpose of a toner, along with the importance of first lightening and then identifying the pigments to be neutralized or accentuated (steps 1 and 2). Now let’s see how to choose your perfect toner and tips for a successful application.

Step 3: Choose the right toner

The toner can be used to create what the pros call a shadow root to neutralize unwanted highlights or simply obtain a precise result (ash, beige, copper, etc.). A tip for choosing the correct toner is to go by the lightest section of your hair.

1. Dark red highlights are neutralized by dark green
2. Copper highlights are neutralized by blue
3. Golden and yellow highlights are neutralized by purple

Misconception: Toners are strictly for light tones. False! Brunettes and redheads can also use this type of product to optimize the hair’s intensity and lustre. In short, a colour of the same level or darker than the hair colour is selected before application.

Step 4: Choice of developer

Toners are not to be applied alone. They must be mixed with a developer. Usually, toners are used with a very weak developer for pigment depositing without permanent alterations to the hair fiber.

• Under 10 volume: To deposit pigments without lightening the hair. The mix will not penetrate the hair fiber, which means the results will be temporary.
• 10 volume: This volume of oxidant is very mild and less harmful to the hair fiber. It provides for good colour deposit capacity on lighter areas without affecting the base colour.
• 20 volume: The high oxidant volume gives a more intense and long-lasting result. The downside is that a product this strong will also alter the natural base. If you don’t want to lighten the darker parts of your hair, a 10 volume developer will be sufficient (and will also cause minimum damage!).

Step 5: Wait time

Wait time varies depending on the manufacturer’s instructions. It is essential to carefully read the instructions before application and to follow them to the letter. You’ll thus avoid plenty of unpleasant surprises!